knit.101
 Just
like its source—the hip and stylish knit.1
magazine, this beginner-friendly handbook targets
the new face of knitting and crochet: a contemporary,
energized young audience that’s embracing
yarn and needles with a passion. It’s cool,
it’s chic, it’s got right-from-the-beginning
instructions, and it covers both knitting and
crochet in equal measure: Knit.101 is
like no other guide on the market. Geared to 18-to
35-year-olds, this fun manual includes how-to's,
resource guides, tool lists, and easy-to-follow
instructions, as well as skill-building projects.
Complete with tips, anecdotes and full-color photography,
Knit.101 is the definitive guide to knitting
and crochet for today's crafter.
Order
your copy today! |
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choosing a size
A garment can take weeks, even months, to knit, so the last
thing you want is to discover that the garment is two sizes
too large (or worse, two sizes too small). To decide which
size to make, measure a favorite sweater and use it as
a guide. Choose the finished bust/chest measurement in the
pattern that comes closest to your desired width.
sizing
Knit.1 provides instructions in the smallest size, with
larger sizes given in parentheses. If only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes.
measuring
Lay the fabric out on a flat, smooth surface and, using a
tape measure, take the measurement in the middle of a row.
Determine the length of your work by measuring from the row
below your needle to the bottom edge. When measuring
the length of an armhole, don’t measure along the curve
or slanted edges—this will provide inaccurate measurements.
Measure the length in a straight line from the needle to
the first armhole decrease.
reading instructions
Even the most experienced knitters should read through
the entire set of instructions before starting to knit.
Once you’ve
built momentum, you won’t want to stop stitching to
look up something you don’t know. Circle the information
for
your size and look up unfamiliar terms before you start.
Study the schematics for measurements and shapes of the pieces
and determine if you want to make any changes. If you make
alterations, be sure to adjust the yarn amounts
accordingly.
glossary
bind off Used
to finish an edge or segment. Lift the first stitch over
the second, the second over the third, etc. (U.K.: cast
off)
• bind off in ribbing Work
in ribbing as you bind off. (Knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches.)
(U.K.: cast off in ribbing)
• 3-needle bind-off With
the right side of the two pieces facing and the needles parallel, insert a third
needle into the first stitch on each needle and knit them together. Knit the
next two stitches the same way. Slip the first stitch on the third needle over
the second stitch and off the needle. Repeat for three-needle bind-off.
cast on Placing a foundation row
of stitches on the needle in order to begin knitting.
decreasing (left slanting) Reduce
the stitches in a row (that is, slip, slip, knit).
decreasing (right slanting) Reduce
the stitches in a row (that is, knit 2 together).
garter stitch Knit every row. Circular
knitting: knit one round, then purl one round.
increase Add stitches in a row (that
is, knit in front and back of stitch).
knitwise Insert the needle into
the stitch as if you were going to knit it.
make one With the needle tip, lift
the strand between the last stitch knit and the next stitch on the left-hand
needle and knit into back of it. One knit stitch has been added.
make one p-st With the needle tip,
lift the strand between the last stitch worked and the next stitch on the left-hand
needle and purl it. One purl stitch has been added.
no stitch On some charts, “no stitch” is
indicated with shaded spaces where stitches have been decreased or not yet made.
In such cases, work the stitches of the chart, skipping over the “no stitch” spaces.
place markers Place or attach a
loop of contrast yarn or purchased stitch marker as indicated.
pick
up and knit (purl) Knit (or purl) into the loops along an edge.
purlwise Insert the needle into
the stitch as if you were going to purl it.
reverse-stockinette stitch Purl
right-side rows, knit wrong-side rows. Circular knitting: purl all rounds. (U.K.:
reverse stocking stitch)
selvage stitch Edge stitch that
helps make seaming easier.
slip, slip, knit Slip next two stitches
knitwise, one at a time, to right-hand needle. Insert tip of left-hand needle
into fronts of these stitches, from left to right. Knit them together. One stitch
has been decreased.
slip, slip, slip, knit Slip next
three stitches knitwise, one at a time, to right-hand needle. Insert tip of left-hand
needle into fronts of these stitches, from left to right. Knit them together.
Two stitches have been decreased.
slip stitch An unworked stitch made
by passing a stitch from the left-hand to the right-hand needle as if to purl.
stockinette stitch Knit right-side
rows, purl wrong-side rows. Circular knitting: knit all rounds. (U.K.: stocking
stitch)
work even Continue in pattern without
increasing or decreasing. (U.K.: work straight)
yarn over Making a new stitch by
wrapping the yarn over the right-hand needle. (U.K.: yfwd, yon, yrn)
abbreviations |
approx approximately
beg begin(ning)
CC contrasting color
ch chain(s)
cm centimeter(s)
cn cable needle
cont continue(ing)
dc double crochet
(U.K.: tr-treble)
dec decrease(ing)
dpn double
pointed needle(s)
foll follow(s)(ing)
g gram(s)
hdc half double
crochet (U.K.:
htr-half treble)
inc increase(ing)
k knit
k2tog knit 2 stitches
together
lp(s) loop(s)
LH left-hand
m meter(s)
M1 make
one stitch
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M1 p-st make
one purl stitch
MC main color|
mm millimeter(s)
oz ounce(s)
p purl
p2tog purl 2 stitches
together
pat pattern
pm place
marke
rem remain(s)(ing)
rep repeat
rev
St st reverse stockinette
stitch
rnd(s) round(s)
RH right-hand
RS right side(s)
sc single crochet (U.K.: dc-double crochet)
sk skip
SKP slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over knit
1
SK2P slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch
over k2tog
S2KP slip 2 knitwise one at a time, knit 1 pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit
1 |
sl slip
sl st slip stitch (U.K.:
sc-single crochet)
sp(s) space(s)
ssk slip,
slip, knit
sssk slip, slip, slip, knit
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette
stitch
tbl through
back of loop
tog together
tr treble crochet
(U.K.: dtr-double treble)
WS wrong
side(s)
w&t wrap & turn
wyif with
yarn in front
wyib with
yarn in back
yd yard(s)
yo yarn
over
* repeat
directions following
*
as many times as indicated
[ ] repeat directions
inside
brackets as many times as
indicated.
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skill levels
Super Easy 
You can practically knit this
blindfolded.
Easy 
More complicated than your basic stockinette scarf, but
less intimidating than a lace shawl. Basic stitches with
minimal shaping and finishing.
Intermediate 
Pay attention: You’re sure to encounter slightly intricate
stitches, shaping and finishing.
Advanced 
We call this extreme knitting. Even the most discerning
stitch mavens will break a sweat. |
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gauge this
Very important! The knitting gauge—the number of stitches
and rows per inch—determines the size of the garment
you are making. Every knitting pattern states the gauge,
or “tension,” on
which the sizing is based. For accurate results, we
strongly recommend you test your knitting against this measurement
before you start a project. The test swatch should be at
least 4"/10cm square, using the yarn and needle size
called for in the pattern. After creating the swatch, measure
it with a ruler or knit gauge tool. If the number of stitches
and rows does not match the pattern’s gauge, you must
change your needle size. An easy rule to follow: Larger needles
equal fewer stitches to the inch; smaller needles
equal more stitches to the inch. Try different needle sizes
until you get the correct gauge. We know it’s a drag,
but it’s well worth your time.
Standard Yarn Weight System |
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Yarn
Weight
Symbol &
Category Names |
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Type
of
Yarns in Category |
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Sock,
Fingering,
Baby |
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Sport,
Baby |
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DK,
Light
Worsted |
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Worsted,
Afghan,
Aran |
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Chunky,
Craft,
Rug |
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Bulky,
Roving |
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Knit
Gauge
Range* in
Stockinette
Stitch to
4 inches |
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27-32
sts |
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23-36
sts |
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21-24
sts |
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16-20
sts |
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12-15
sts |
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6-11
sts |
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Recommended
Needle in
Metric Size Range |
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2.25-3.25
mm |
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3.25-3.75
mm |
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2.75-3.45
mm |
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4.5-5.5
mm |
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5.5-8
mm |
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8
mm
and larger |
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Recommended
Needle U.S.
Size Range |
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1
to 3 |
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3
to 5 |
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5
to 7 |
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7
to 9 |
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9
to 11 |
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11
and larger |
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Crochet
Gauge*
Ranges in
Single Crochet
to 4 inch |
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21-32
sts |
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16-20
sts |
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12-17
sts |
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11-14
sts |
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8-11
sts |
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5-9
sts |
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Recommended
Hook in Metric
Size Range |
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2.25-3.5
mm |
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3.5-4.5
mm |
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4.5-5.5
mm |
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5.5-6.5
mm |
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6.5-9
mm |
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9
mm
and larger |
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Recommended
Hook U.S.
Size Range |
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B-1
to E-4 |
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E-4
to 7 |
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71
to I-9 |
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I-9
to
K-10½ |
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K-10½ to
M-13 |
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M-13
and larger |
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*GUIDELINES ONLY:
The above reflect the most commonly used
gauges and needle or hood sizes for specific
yarn categories.
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Knitting Needles |
| U.S. |
METRIC |
| 0 |
2mm |
| 1 |
2.25mm |
| 2 |
2.75mm |
| 3 |
3.25mm |
| 4 |
3.5mm |
| 5 |
3.75mm |
| 6 |
4mm |
| 7 |
4.5mm |
| 8 |
5mm |
| 9 |
5.5mm |
| 10 |
6mm |
| 10½ |
6.5m |
| 11 |
8mm |
| 13 |
9mm |
| 15 |
10mm |
| 17 |
12.75mm |
| 19 |
15mm |
| 35 |
19mm |
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Crochet Needles |
| U.S. |
METRIC |
| B/1 |
2.25mm |
| C/2 |
2.75mm |
| D/3 |
3.25mm |
| E/5 |
3.5mm |
| F/5 |
3.75mm |
| G/6 |
4mm |
| 7 |
4.5mm |
| H/8 |
5mm |
| I/9 |
5.5mm |
| J/10 |
6mm |
| K10½ |
6.5mm |
| L/11 |
8m |
| M/13 |
9mm |
| N/15 |
10mm |
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blocking
Blocking is to knitting what pressing is to sewing—a
process that can really define your garment. Block or press
garment pieces according to the instructions included in
the pattern and on the yarn label. The best way to block
is to pin
the knit pieces to a padded surface (such as an ironing board),
lightly dampen them and remove when dry. Never iron or steam
knitted fabric directly.
yarn substitution
Using the yarn specified in each pattern will give you
the best results, but if you’re looking to use up some
of your stash, you can substitute
yarn by comparing your new yarn to the strands shown on
pages 68 and 69. And remember:
Be sure to knit a gauge swatch with the substitute yarn
to ensure that it matches the original gauge and has the
same appearance.
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