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Easy-peasy
charts from our recent issues:
Spring/Summer 2008: The Green
Issue
Pattern #6
Pattern #22
Pattern #24
Pattern #25
Pattern #30
Pattern #31
Pattern #32
Pattern #33
Pattern #34
Pattern #35
Pattern #36
Winter 2007: the Time issue
Pattern #5
Pattern #19
Pattern #24
Fall 2007: the Back To issue
Pattern #32
Pattern #38
Summer 2007: the Green issue
Pattern #11
Spring 2007: the Sports issue
Pattern #6
Pattern #27
Pattern #34
Pattern #35
You’ll need Adobe
Acrobat™ to open. |
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Find
charts 'n' stuff from previous issues in
the Archive |
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 Whether
you’re a knitting novice or just need
to brush up on the basics, this quick refresher
course will get you clicking. Follow our
simple how-tos as we take you step by step
through casting on, knitting and purling.
Practice with a scrap ball of yarn, and
start stitching. Click here
to begin... |
 There’s
no substitute for a hands-on teacher, but
our stepby- step primer is the next best
thing. So pick up a hook and some yarn,
get yourself comfortably seated and let
the fun begin! Click
here to begin... |
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approx approximately
beg begin(ning)
CC contrasting color
cm centimeter(s)
cn cable needle
COL
carriage on left
cont continue(ing)
COR
carriage on right
dec decrease(ing)
dpn double pointed
needle(s)
EON
every other needle
foll follow(s)(ing)
FWP
forward working position
g gram(s)
grp(s) group(s)
HP
holding position
inc increase(ing)
k knit |
KP
keyplate
LH left-hand
m meter(s)
mm millimeter(s)
MC main color
MY main yarn
M1 make one (see
glossary)
NWP
non-working position
oz ounce(s)
p purl
pat(s) pattern(s)
pm place marker
psso pass slip stitch(es)
over
R
row(s)
RC row counter (the
number of
rows you have
rem remain(s)(ing)
rep repeat |
rev St st
reverse-stockinette
stitch
RH right-hand
RS right side (outside)
rnd(s) round(s)
SKP slip 1, knit
1, pass slip
stitch(es) over
SK2P slip 1, knit
2 stitches
together, pass
slip stitch(es) over—
2 stitches decreased
sl slip
sl st slip stitch
(U.K.: see glossary)
ssk slip, slip, knit
(see glossary)
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette
stitch |
(U.K.: see basic stitches)
tbl through back
loop(s)
tog together
WP
working position
WS wrong side(s)
WY
waste yarn
wyib with yarn in
back
wyif with yarn in
front
yd yard(s)
yo yarn over (hook
or needle)
(U.K.: see glossary)
* repeat directions
following *
as many times as indicated
[ ] repeat directions
inside
brackets as many times as
indicated.
Machine-knitting
abbreviations
are indicated in yellow. |
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BP
back post
BPdc back post double
crochet
BPsc back post single
crochet
BPtr back post treble
crochet
ch chain(s)
ch- refers to chain
or space
previously made (i.e., ch-1
space)
ch-sp chain space
previously
made
dc double crochet
(U.K.: tr––treble)
dc2tog double crochet
2
stitches together
dtr double treble
(U.K.: trtr––triple treble)
FP front post
FPdc front post double
crochet
FPsc front post single
crochet |
FPtr
front post treble crochet
grp(s) group(s)
hdc half double crochet
(U.K.: htr––half treble)
lp(s) loop(s)
sc single crochet
(U.K.: dc ––double crochet)
sc2tog single crochet
2 sts
together
sk skip(ped)
sl st slip stitch
(U.K.: sc––single crochet)
sp(s) space(s)
t-ch turning chain
tr treble
(U.K.: dtr––double treble)
trtr triple treble
(U.K.: qtr––quadruple
treble) |
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METRIC |
| B/1 |
2.25mm |
| C/2 |
2.75mm |
| D/3 |
3.25mm |
| E/5 |
3.5mm |
| F/5 |
3.75mm |
| G/6 |
4mm |
| 7 |
4.5mm |
| H/8 |
5mm |
| I/9 |
5.5mm |
| J/10 |
6mm |
| K10½ |
6.5mm |
| L/11 |
8m |
| M/13 |
9mm |
| N/15 |
10mm |
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| U.S. |
METRIC |
| 0 |
2mm |
| 1 |
2.25mm |
| 2 |
2.75mm |
| 3 |
3.25mm |
| 4 |
3.5mm |
| 5 |
3.75mm |
| 6 |
4mm |
| 7 |
4.5mm |
| 8 |
5mm |
| 9 |
5.5mm |
| 10 |
6mm |
| 10½ |
6.5m |
| 11 |
8mm |
| 13 |
9mm |
| 15 |
10mm |
| 17 |
12.75mm |
| 19 |
15mm |
| 35 |
19mm |
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BIND
OFF:
To finish off an edge and keep stitches
from unraveling by lifting the first stitch
over the second, the second over the third,
etc. (see details at left). (U.K.: cast
off )
BIND OFF IN
RIBBING:
Maintain the rib pattern as you bind off
(knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches).
(U.K.: cast off in ribbing)
CAST ON:
Form a foundation row by making specified
number of loops on the knitting needle.
DECREASE:
Reduce the number of stitches in a row (i.e.,
knit two together; purl two together).
INCREASE:
Add to the number of stitches in a row (i.e.,
knit in front and back of stitch).
KNITWISE:
Insert the needle into the stitch as if
you were going to knit it.
MAKE ONE:
With tip of the needle, lift strand between
last stitch knit and next stitch on left-hand
needle, place strand on left-hand needle
and knit into back of it to increase one
stitch.
PLACE MARKERS:
Loop a piece of contrasting yarn or a purchased
stitch marker onto the needle. |
PICK
UP AND KNIT (PURL):
Knit (or purl) into the loops along an edge.
PURLWISE:
Insert the needle into the stitch as if
you were going to purl it.
SELVAGE STITCH:
Edge stitch that helps make seaming easier.
SKIP:
Skip specified number of stitches of the
previous row and work into next stitch.
(U.K.: miss)
SLIP, SLIP,
KNIT:
Slip next two stitches knitwise, one at
a time, to right-hand needle. Insert tip
of left-hand needle into fronts of these
stitches from left to right and knit them
together to decrease one stitch.
SLIP STITCH:
In knitting, pass a stitch from the left-hand
to the right-hand needle as if to purl without
working it. In crochet, insert hook through
loop or edge, yarn over and pull through
loop on hook. (U.K.: abbreviation —
ss or sc)
WORK EVEN:
Continue in specified pattern without increasing
or decreasing. (U.K.: work straight)
YARN OVER:
In knitting, make a new stitch by placing
the yarn over the right-hand needle. (U.K.:
yfwd, yon, yrn) In crochet, wind yarn around
hook. (U.K.: yoh or yrh) |
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| Knitting gauge—the number
of stitches and rows per inch—determines
the size of the garment you are making.
Every knitting pattern states the
gauge, or “tension,” on
which the sizing is based. For successful
results, it is essential to test your
knitting against this measurement
before you start a project. Make a
test swatch at least 4"/10cm
square, using the yarn and needle
size called for in the pattern. Then
measure your swatch using a ruler
or a knit gauge tool, pictured here
and on page 71. If the number of stitches
and rows do not match the pattern’s
gauge, you must change your needle
size. An easy rule to follow is: TO
GET FEWER STITCHES TO THE INCH/CM,
USE A LARGER NEEDLE; TO GET MORE STITCHES
TO THE INCH/CM, USE A SMALLER NEEDLE.
Try different needle sizes until you
get the proper gauge. |
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Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, recommended
needle and hook sizes
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Yarn
Weight
Symbol &
Category Names |
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Type
of
Yarns in Category |
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Sock,
Fingering,
Baby |
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Sport,
Baby |
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DK,
Light
Worsted |
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Worsted,
Afghan,
Aran |
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Chunky,
Craft,
Rug |
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Bulky,
Roving |
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Knit
Gauge
Range* in
Stockinette
Stitch to
4 inches |
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27-32
sts |
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23-36
sts |
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21-24
sts |
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16-20
sts |
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12-15
sts |
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6-11
sts |
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Recommended
Needle in
Metric Size Range |
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2.25-3.25
mm |
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3.25-3.75
mm |
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2.75-3.45
mm |
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4.5-5.5
mm |
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5.5-8
mm |
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8
mm
and larger |
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Recommended
Needle U.S.
Size Range |
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1
to 3 |
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3
to 5 |
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5
to 7 |
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7
to 9 |
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9
to 11 |
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11
and larger |
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Crochet
Gauge*
Ranges in
Single Crochet
to 4 inch |
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21-32
sts |
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16-20
sts |
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12-17
sts |
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11-14
sts |
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8-11
sts |
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5-9
sts |
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Recommended
Hook in Metric
Size Range |
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2.25-3.5
mm |
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3.5-4.5
mm |
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4.5-5.5
mm |
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5.5-6.5
mm |
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6.5-9
mm |
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9
mm
and larger |
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Recommended
Hook U.S.
Size Range |
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B-1
to E-4 |
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E-4
to 7 |
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71
to I-9 |
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I-9
to
K-10½ |
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K-10½ to
M-13 |
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M-13
and larger |
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*GUIDELINES
ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly
used gauges and needle or hood sizes for
specific yarn categories.
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